FAQs

KITTEN’S AVAILABILITY, PAYMENT

Please kindly see the available kittens page. If they are all reserved or none are displayed, that is probably the actual case.

Kittens are ready for new homes at about 8 weeks of kitten’s age (because the kitten’s will be fully weaned and eat more solid food at 8 weeks old).

  • Contact us to submit an interest for the available kitten/s
  • Q&A by Email/Text between interested party and us
  • Book for the kitten viewings
  • During viewing, Q&A between interested party and us
  • Submit Deposit on the kitten
  • Final payment before collection
  • Pick up the kitten

The price usually depends on class (quality) of kitten (pet class, breed class) and ears (straight or fold).

The deposit of about 30% of the kitten price allows you to reserve the kitten that you want, to make sure that they won’t be sold to anyone else. The amount of the deposit will be subtracted from the final payment. Deposits are not refundable. We will NOT reserve/hold a kitten without a deposit.

After 8 weeks of kitten’s age (or ask us).

After the submission of the kitten’s deposit. The remaining balance can be provided between 3 weeks to the day before the scheduled pick up date of the kitten. The final amount MUST be paid the day before collecting the kitten.

We accept cash and bank transfer.

No, we don’t ship our kittens. All kittens are to be pick up in person; or you can arranged by yourself using licensed pets transport for the kitten collection (subjected to their price).

After you have reserved a kitten from us, we will provide you the sales contract. You will be required to sign sales contract.

KITTEN’S STATUS

Birth to 3 Weeks: Neonatal stage. At birth, kittens can barely move, hear or see. It takes about 5 days for them to start opening their eyes and gaining 10g – 50 g a day in weight.

 

4 – 8 Weeks: Weaning. The sense of smell matures and hearing is well developed. They begin to develop social skills an motor abilities through interactions with their mother and siblings.

 

2 – 4 Months: Intense growth stage. Kittens begin to understand their place in the household and through training and experience, form key social behaviors.

 

4 Months+: Sustained growth. By 8 months the kitten will reached 80% of its adult weight. They also develop other adult features like adult teeth. Adulthood for the cat is reached in 2 years.

When buying a kitten from us, you can be sure that our kittens are up to date with their vaccinations and deworming treatments. The kitten’s schedule begins at 2 weeks of age:

 

  • 2 weeks old – de-worm
  • 4 weeks old – de-worm
  • 6 weeks old – de-worm
  • 8 weeks old – de-worm/de-flead
  • 8 weeks old – 1st vet vaccination/health check
  • 10 weeks old – de-worm
  • 12 weeks old – de-worm/de-flead
  • 12 weeks old – 2nd vet vaccination/health check

We only allow booked viewings to view the kittens.

Yes, you can! All the kittens and their parents live together, you can view the mom and the dad of the kitten when you come to pick up the kitten.

British Shorthair and Scottish Fold are a sweet, charming breeds. They are an easy cat breed to live with and to care for. These are sweet, calm cats who enjoy being around people, children, other cats and even dogs. You’re never lonely when you have a British Shorthair or Scottish Fold cat!

Kittens are born with straight ears, and only after three to four weeks, it is clear whether they will remain so, or “will fall”. Those whose ears drop are Scottish Fold kitten, but kitten’s ears that don’t drop are Straight ears.

Our king and queen generally produce kittens that are:

  • Black Golden Shaded
  • Black Golden Shaded Torbie/Tabby
  • Black Golden Shaded Tipped/Shell
  • Black Golden Shaded Spotted

 

On some odd or rare variations, the produced kittens are:

  • Red Classic Tabby
  • Chocolate Tortie
  • Blue Smoke
  • Silver Shaded
  • White

We  keep our cattery healthy and clean. Our king and queens have their yearly checkups and up to date vaccinations. Our cats gets their PKD and DNA tests; our king and queens are FIV/FeLV Negative and PKD-1 & PRA-pd Negative.

We are a small cattery, we don’t have a set schedule. We let the mom & dad cat do it naturally within their sweet romantic time. The best thing to do is to follow us on @meowcjcats, we will announce it on our website and social media.

FOR NEW KITTY OWNER

The Buyer acquires the status of owner at the time of receiving of the animal. From the moment of collection, the Buyer bears all the responsibility for the health and care of the animal.

 

We guarantee the cat/kitten to be in good health at the time of the kitten collection for a period of three (3) days. It will be the responsibility of the Buyer to have the cat/kitten examined by a veterinarian within three (3) days, at the Buyer’s expense.

 

If found to be seriously medically deficient, the Breeder will take the cat/kitten back and refund payment excluding the deposit. No monies will be paid or refunded by the breeder for the kitten if no fault from the kitten.

 

Under the following conditions: the Buyer must provide veterinary certificate or health reports, from a licensed veterinarian, stating the medical issue and that the cat/kitten is seriously medically deficient; a second examination by a veterinarian of the Breeder’s choice corroborates these claims. After the three (3) days period, the Breeder can no longer guarantee the cat/kitten’s health.

 

The Buyer understands and agrees that the Buyer is purchasing a live animal. Even the healthiest cat/kitten do get sick if exposed to viruses and other illness-causing microbes. The Breeder assumes no liability or responsibility for any veterinary care for this cat/kitten after the Buyer takes possession of said cat/kitten. Under no circumstances will the Breeder be responsible for any veterinary bills incurred by the Buyer. This include but not limited to: Feline Herpes Virus, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia, Feline Coronavirus (including the mutated FIP), Chlamydia, Ringworm, Coccidia, Giardia, Respiratory Disease, or any Nuisance Disease.

For those who suffer from acute stress and anxiety, the simple act of stroking a cat can have an immediate calming effect. Research found that petting can reduce blood pressure, and since people with mental illnesses feel better through physical contact with others, the act of touching, stroking, or helping with grooming a pet can work as therapy.

 

Important Notice:

Having a kitten is a lot of fun. However, kitten is like a learning child, new owner requires patience to care for the kitten’s need.

 

Although getting a kitten can help to reduce stress, please be mindful, especially kittens need a certain amount of attention that someone with acute stress or anxiety might not be able to manage.

 

It’s important to determine what you are capable of providing an animal before taking them into your home. We strongly advice not to get the cat/kitten if you can’t cater their needs, best to check if you can have a pet before owning one.

Please check are you allergic if never had been around cats. If you never had cat before, get yourself and your family tested by GP in case you have allergy. It’s a simple test, doesn’t take long but can save everyone a lot of heartache in future.

 

If you are aware of you or your family have allergic to cats, we strongly advice not to get the cat/kitten. We do not want to impact your health and the kitten’s wellbeing.

When your cat grooms themselves, tiny hook-like structures on their tongue catch loose and dead hair, which is then swallowed. The majority of this hair passes all the way through the digestive tract with no problems. But if some hair stays in the stomach, it can form a hairball. Usually, your cat will vomit the hairball to get rid of it.

  • Vaccination card
  • Dewormed and Deflead
  • Vet checked
  • Contract agreement
  • Kitten starter pack

Before bringing your kitten home, these following items suggested for new owners to prepare for the kitty (Find out more at Kitten Care):

 

* Cat Carrier

Useful for visits to the veterinarian

 

* Food Bowls / Water Bowls

Stainless steel, ceramic or glass are preferable to plastic bowls. Long term usage of plastic material bowls might cause a bacteria which leads to black spots around cat’s mouth.

 

* Quality Cat Food

We feed our kittens with the following cat food brands: Royal Canin, Purina, Lily’s Kitchen, Hill’s Science Plan.

 

* Litter box, Litter Sand and Scoop

It is up to you to become informed & choose which kind of litter suits you best. The litter box should be placed in a quiet, accessible location.

 

* Scratching Post/Board/Cat Tree/Cat House

Cats scratch for several reasons. Clawing is part of the cat’s grooming regime, old layers of the claw are shed. Cats also have scent glands in their feet & when they scratch they put their scent on the object. When a cat has just woken up it may go over to its favourite scratching spot. This is done to stretch the muscles of the shoulders & back.

 

* Cat Nail Trimmer

Regular use of a cat nail trimmer can make your favourite fluffy companion less destructive. Be careful while trimming the claws, cut off only the very tip of it in order not to harm blood vessels.

 

This procedure is quite simple. Take a paw, slightly push at the finger so that the claw would come out and view it against the light. You will see a white semi-transparent tip and a dark centre. Cut off only the semi-transparent tip.

 

* Cat Brush / Comb

Groom your pet whenever possible. Do it in a gentle manner when your pet is in a mood to fondle.

 

* Cat Bed or Box

With a warm blanket or towel

 

* Cat Toys / Ball

Most cats love toy balls, bells, teaser feather; using basic homemade toys can also provide hours of entertainment.  After all, every kitten is a little child!

Before your kitten arrives, it is a good idea to prepare your house for the arriving kitten. First of all, try to remove small objects. Just like a little baby, a kitten might swallow a small object that is lying on the floor. Try to hide power cords and cables. Try to put them under carpets or behind furniture.

 

When the kitten arrives, try to give it the most attention during these days. Then the kitten will adjust better to you.

 

Please note that, it is best practice to prepare the kitten toilet place and re-trained them to know where it is and how to use it at the new home. To re-train the kittens: First, place the kitten in the litter box, then hold the kitten front paws and play with the litter sand. This may take some practice but once they get the hang of it, they will know that is their toilet place.

New environment could make the kitty nervous. To let the kitty gain appetite you can try a few things:

  1. Add the creamy treats to the kitten kibble to encourage the kitten to eat.
  2. If you have any dry kibble treat (example dreamy brand) you can mix it with normal kibble.
  3. Try to create a feeding schedule, and keep with this routine. Kitten of around 8 weeks old should be fed 3 to 4 times a day. you can reduce or add this feeding schedule depending on how the kitten respond to the feeding schedule.
  4. To help kitten adjust the feeding routine, make sure to feed them at the same place, so they won’t be confused or go off of their food.
  5. If the kitten is anxious, try to create a comforting home environment to help the kitten feel more relax and secure. (you can try to use Feliway cat calmer)

A lot of cats, even those with meticulous litter box habits, don’t cover their poop. Some never learn to, their mothers didn’t so they don’t, and some just go along covering up everything fine and then one day they stop for some unknown reason. As long as poop is getting in the box, it’s probably counted as blessings and just scoop it, or throw a little litter over the stool. You’re actually lucky that your cat decided to leave its poop uncovered, which is better than the alternative of your cat pooping at other places in the house, such as on your carpet, bed or bathtub.

 

As for why your kitten suddenly decided to leave its poop unburied now instead of before, the answer lies in the environment. Few thoughts on why the kitten that might do this:

(1) If you have changed brands of litter recently, so that the new litter is perhaps sharper or of a texture that is irritating to the cat’s paws, like those ground walnut shells or the little hard tubes, or if it has perfume or some kind of clumping agent or other space-age chemical added to it, that could make the cat not want to touch the litter any more than necessary, and this could be a reason for not covering

(2) Cats are territorial creatures. They use marking behaviours to warn other cats that a particular territory belongs to them, with the aim of minimizing contact with non-friendly cats. cats also leave their poop uncovered to spread their scents and mark their territory. This is especially common amongst male cats.

(3) Is there a new cat in the house? If so, your cat may be communicating its dominance to this new cat. Even if you don’t have a new cat, your cat could also be marking its turf as there are strays wandering outside the home.

 

Suggestions:

  • If you have multiple cats in the house, you should have an adequate number of litter boxes.
  • Place the litter boxes in different parts of the house so each of your cats can have its own pooping territory.
  • If you suspect that your cat is stressed due to competition with other cats, create a stress-free home environment by setting up cat scratching areas, hiding spots, and supplying water fountains.
  • Your cat does not like its litter? You can try the type of litter would be a clumping and unscented litter. Look for those that have little dust, can absorb odour, and clumps fast. Then, observe your cat when it’s doing its business.
  • Litter boxes size. An ideal litter should be big enough to fit your cat’s body, and then some. It should have enough wiggle room for your cat to dig into the litter comfortably and find spots that have yet to be soiled.
  • Even if your cat’s happy with the litter box itself, it might have a problem with the location. Switch the location of the litter box(es) to somewhere more ideal.
  • Is it enough cat litter sand? You might need to top up more so when the kitten does their toilet business it feels comfortable.

If your kitten is a away from its mother, it is now your responsibility to keep them clean. You may be wondering, do I need to clean my kittens bottom? Yes, you should clean a kitten’s bottom. Cleaning a kitten’s bottom helps prevent health complications.

 

Many cats don’t lick themselves clean immediately as if they were wiping, generally there shouldn’t be poop stuck there.

 

The moment you see the fecal matter on your kitten’s bottom, grab a tissue and remove it. If it’s a harder piece of fecal matter, it should be easy to grab and bin it. If it’s softer fecal matter, it may be a little more challenging to grab off of the fur, so use multiple tissues and remember to be delicate as you pull it off of the fur. When fecal matter remains on the fur, it can touch the skin underneath and lead to skin conditions. Your kitten could start to experience a rash that could prevent them from defecating correctly. Or, if your kitten has long fur, the fecal matter could get matted into their hair. Not only could this cause a mess in your home if they sit on your furniture, but it feels very uncomfortable for them.

 

You can use pet-safe wipes to clean their bottoms, may also help better than just toilet paper alone.

 

Most kittens will learn to groom themselves but you can get a catnip spray (liquid version) and sprayed a little bit on his bottom. This will encourage the kitten to clean his bum area.

A kitten/cat can get stressed out in a new environment. Speaking of stressful environments, stress can also be a cause of diarrhea itself. When there is crowding, conflict, or a change in the environment, a kitten can get stressed out. Stress can manifest as a physical ailment, sometimes in the form of diarrhea.

 

If kitten has had mild diarrhoea for less than 24 hours, but is otherwise fine (active and has no other symptoms), you may want to try settling them at home before contacting your vet.

 

Our vet suggested (different vet may have different opinions on this) to feed the kitten with boil or steam boneless, skinless pieces of chicken, white fish or turkey in non-salted water until done. Drain the boiled meat and allow it to cool to room temperature before shredding into small pieces and feed the kitten.

 

If it’s a persistent intestinal infection that has become severe, it could be longer. You’ll need a vet to diagnose the cause and discuss what kitten poop looks like.

 

AWARENESS

Awareness and importance to know all these are infectious conditions for a cat/kitten.

  • Feline Coronavirus / FIP
  • Cryptosporidium
  • Campylobacter
  • Feline Herpes Virus (FHV)
  • Chlamydia
  • Feline Leukemia Virus Infection (FeLV)
  • Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

Our adult cats have been checked regularly and tested negative. This has been achieved through careful husbandry, hygiene and nutrition.

Feline Coronavirus is a common stomach bug virus that usually causes only minor symptoms. However, in a small minority of cats the virus will mutate into FIP.

 

Can I catch Feline Coronavirus?  No. Feline coronavirus is specific to cats and cannot be caught by humans. The common cold is a human form of coronavirus, but is a totally different form of the virus. You will not catch feline coronavirus from a cat.

 

Fortunately, in around 90+% of cases, a cat will show either no symptoms at all, or only mild gastro-intestinal symptoms that resolve within a few days or weeks. The cat will fully recover from Feline Coronavirus within a year and there will be no lasting effects from it at all.

 

It is estimated in around 5% of cases, the cat will go on to develop FIP, or Feline Infectious Peritonitis. At this point in time, FIP is a fatal condition. There is some promising research being carried out in America into FIP treatment.

 

Feline Coronavirus testing Feline Coronavirus can be tested for in two ways:

  • A blood test. Blood taken from your cat will determine whether your cat’s immune system is currently fighting FCoV.
  • A fecal PCR assay. In this test a sample of your cat’s feces is taken and tested in the lab. The test takes a few days to complete.

 

Please do not panic if this comes back as positive. 60-100% of cats have been exposed to coronavirus, so it is highly likely that this test would be positive. Unfortunately Feline Coronavirus is statistically ‘normal’ in the cat population. There is no real treatment for Feline Coronavirus, but if you are aware that your cat has it, there are steps that you can take to minimise your cat’s risk of developing FIP, and to help your cat clear the virus. There are also steps you can take to reduce the risk that your cat will spread it to any other cats in the household.

 

My cat has Feline Coronavirus, what should I do?

  • adopt an excellent litter tray hygiene regime.
  • minimise any stress your cat may be under
  • feed a good quality diet. Keep your cat’s diet consistent.

 

When does Feline Coronavirus turn into FIP? See next FAQ on FIP.

FIP is a dreadful illness that affects cats every year, and it is poorly understood at the moment. Thankfully, FIP is relatively rare and there are many things we can do as breeders and cat owners to reduce our risks.

 

There are two types of FIP: (1) wet, or effusive FIP and (2) dry, or non-effusive FIP.

 

Please be cautious:

  • It is estimated that up to 80% of FIP cases are misdiagnosed!
  • A positive feline coronavirus result is not a diagnosis of FIP. Even a very high titre for feline coronavirus is not a diagnosis of FIP.
  • There are other illnesses, including cancer and Bovine TB, that have exactly the same symptoms as FIP.
  • So it is essential to have a diagnosis confirmed by a specialist centre, not just by your local vet.
  • If you treat a cat for FIP when they can have another condition it will have a seriously detrimental effect on their health.

 

What causes FIP? FIP is caused by a complex and multiple mutation of Feline Coronavirus within the affected cat’s body. This is not covid-19. Feline coronavirus has been around for many decades.

 

Treating FIP.

In 2020, there is a new antiviral drug available that has apparently cured many cats of FIP. It is expensive and must be administered early, but it appears to be highly effective.  The earlier FIP is diagnosed and the treatment path is started, the better the outcome for the cat. Niels Pederson, an American researcher, has successfully cured some cats of FIP. This is cutting edge veterinary science and the treatment is still experimental: it is not guaranteed to be a success, but it is the only treatment path that has had any success so far.

Cryptosporidium is an intestinal parasite that is commonly ingested through contaminated water, food or feces. The resulting diseased condition, cryptosporidiosis, can typically be treated effectively with medications. This disease is no more likely to affect one breed than another, and is commonly seen in kittens.

 

The most common symptoms of cryptosporidiosis are fever and diarrhea. Cats will also display intolerance for food, or in more serious cases, will suffer from organ disease. Risk factors include the ingestion of contaminated food or water, the ingestion of animal feces, and intestinal infection.

 

Diagnosis can be done by vet. A fecal sample will be taken to determine what the underlying cause is for the issue. The parasite will be found in the course of the fecal examination.

 

Treatment for cryptosporidiosis is generally on an outpatient basis, with the recommendation to limit food until the diarrhea has subsided, along with an increase in fluids to combat dehydration. Boil your cat’s drinking water to assure that it is clean. For healthy cats, their immune system will fight the parasite and the condition will generally run its course without treatment. Young, old, and immune-compromised animals may need medication and guarded care to prevent internal complications. Prescribed medications, if given, must be followed through to completion.

 

The most preventative measure available for this disease is to make sure that your cat is in a clean environment, and is not eating animal feces or drinking dirty water, as it could be contaminated with the cryptosporidium organism that causes this condition.

Feline herpesvirus (FHV-1) causes upper respiratory infections (flu) and ocular (eye) disease in cats. It can lead to multiple symptoms including, conjunctivitis, a sore throat, sneezing and coughing. Occasionally, it can cause skin disease.

 

It’s highly contagious and can spread quickly. This happens when a cat who isn’t carrying the virus comes into contact with an infected cat. Often this might be by licking their food bowl, sharing a litter tray, or brushing against their owner’s clothes.

 

Cat Herpes is often called ‘cat flu’ as the signs can mirror our own flu symptoms. In reality, cat flu is not a specific disease — it’s a general term for feline upper respiratory infections, which are usually caused by either feline herpesvirus, feline calicivirus, or both.

 

How is FHV treated? Your vet will prescribe antibiotics and in some cases intravenous fluids will be required. Some anti-viral medication can help in managing the disease. It’s a good idea to discuss costs with your vet before you start treatment.

 

How do I protect my cat from FHV? Vaccination is the most effective from of preventative care from FHV. Your vet can advise you on this.

 

How do I avoid FHV reoccurring? After being infected with FHV, most cats remain latently infected. This means the virus persists in their nerve cells, so infected cats effectively become life-long carriers of the virus. It’s vital that you keep your cat’s litter trays and bedding clean to prevent the spread of FHV. Many cats don’t spread the virus so aren’t a risk to others. However, some cats will intermittently spread the virus again – this is more common after episodes of stress or when the cat’s immune system is suppressed. When virus is spread again, some cats will also develop mild clinical signs.

If your cat is sneezing or has discharge from its eyes, it may be due to Chlamydia. Chlamydia in cats is a bacteria that causes respiratory tract infections in cats. It’s highly contagious and spread through ocular secretions via fomite and aerosol transmission. Young cats are commonly infected with chlamydia and it’s one of the most common causes of feline conjunctivitis. Treatment consists of antibiotic therapy and the prognosis is generally good.

 

Because chlamydia lives inside cells of the body and is not able to survive for long in the environment, spread of infection relies on direct or close contact with an infected cat. Young cats and kittens are especially vulnerable to this infection, although chlamydia can be detected in cats of all ages. It is one of the most common causes of infectious conjunctivitis in cats.

 

The diagnosis of chlamydiosis in cats can be difficult as there are many other causes of conjunctivitis and respiratory disease. Laboratory tests, such as a polymerase chain reaction (PCR) assay or enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), can be used to detect chlamydia bacteria. Conjunctival swabs and cytology can also be of diagnostic importance.

 

Chlamydiosis in cats is treated with antibiotics. The most common antibiotics used are tetracyclines, amoxicillin-clavulanate and azithromycin. Treatment is generally continued for 6-8 weeks, especially for chronic infections. Supportive care, such as eye ointments or drops may also be prescribed.

Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV) is a virus that attacks the immune system and causes cancers such as lymphoma and leukaemia. Cats with FeLV have an increased risk of developing other infections and diseases. It is estimated that one to two per cent of cats in Britain are permanently infected, and the majority die within four years of FeLV detection. There is no risk to humans.

 

FeLV is most common among young, unvaccinated, un-neutered, outdoor cats. FeLV spreads in the bodily fluids of infected cats, i.e. their saliva (dribble), snot, urine and poo. It can be spread via sneezing, licking and biting, and by sharing food bowls or litter trays with an infected cat. Kittens can catch FeLV inside the womb, and from their mother’s milk. A small proportion of cats manage to fight FeLV and recover (usually vaccinated cats) but sadly, most cats can’t fight it, and become very poorly. In some rare cases, cats with FeLV carry the virus but appear healthy; these cats are at risk of becoming poorly at any time and can spread FeLV to others.

 

Your vet can diagnose FeLV with blood tests. There is no cure for FeLV. If your cat has it, you will need to work closely with your vet to keep them well for as long as possible. FeLV weakens the immune system, making other infection and disease more likely. Your cat will need regular vet checks and special care at home. Sadly, many cats with FeLV become so poorly that they need to be put to sleep to prevent suffering. If your cat has FeLV and seems unwell, take them to the vet straight away to prevent life-threatening problems developing.

 

Vaccination and testing. The best way to prevent FeLV is to vaccinate annually. Before introducing a new cat to your home, it’s a good idea to have them vet checked and vaccinated for FeLV. In some scenarios, your vet may recommend testing for FeLV before vaccinating.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a cat-specific virus that is thought to affect approximately 2-5% of the cat population in the UK.

 

FIV is most commonly seen in unneutered male cats who’ve been fighting for territory. It’s spread by biting and body fluids and doesn’t spread in the environment. Kittens can sometimes be passed the infection from their mum, but many can clear it before they’re six months old.

 

FIV is NOT:

  • FIV is NOT easily passed between cats
  • FIV is NOT passed to humans
  • FIV is NOT passed to other species eg dogs
  • FIV is NOT Feline AIDS
  • FIV is NOT a death sentence for your cat

 

FIV is a virus that affects a cat’s immune system slowly over a matter of years. FIV is a virus specific to cats and only cats.  It cannot exist for more than a few seconds outside the body It is normally transmitted by severe bites, but occasionally an infected mother cat can pass it to her kittens via her milk, or during mating. FIV is most commonly diagnosed in cats 5-10 years old, especially feral, stray or free-roaming toms. Feline AIDS is the terminal stage of immune system destruction that FIV causes, but may not occur for many years, and does not always develop at all before the cat develops some other condition leading to euthanasia. FIV is in the same class of viruses as the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV), the causative agent of acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (AIDS) in people. It is a retrovirus ie it inserts itself into the cat’s genes.

 

Can FIV be cured? Although there’s no cure for FIV, some infected cats are able to live long and happy lives and can make wonderful pets. A vaccine exists to prevent FIV infection in America, but its use is controversial and it’s not available in the UK.

 

What should you feed a FIV cat? You should feed your FIV cat a good quality, balanced diet. They shouldn’t be given any raw food or dairy products, as the risk of contracting foodborne bacterial and parasitic disease is greater in immunosuppressed individuals.

Questions?

 

Please contact us via our Instagram message at:

 

@meowcjcats

 

🙂 Thanks! 🙂

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